Monday, December 20, 2010

New Climb in Honor of John

Email sent from me to friends of John:

"Hi all,

I would like to announce a new climbing route established today in
honor of John. My friend Cesar and I spent the day battling our way
through some gnarly jungle with machetes to get to a new basalt wall,
and then bolting a really nice line. This is the first route on this
new section. Cesar and I felt it was appropriate to name it after
John who visited us here in Boquete, Panama recently. John brought
all the bolts and hangers with him, and then selflessly donated them
to the cause. The route is called "Kynyklismo" a cross between the
name of our good friend and the Spanish word for "cataclysm,"
cataclismo. So, you are all invited to visit us here in Panama and to
give John's first climb (there will be another) a go!

Take care,
Ryan Braasch"


The climb itself is very hard (for me). We are guessing it is rated around
5.12b/c. The holds are tiny crimpers, two underclings, a sloper that becomes a mantle, and the movements are very precise. It requires a lot of body tension and the climb as a whole is very sustained...no real breaks. Cesar got it clean on top-rope after a few tries. I am stuck on one move, but can do all the others (falling between each one). This will be a heck of a project for me. Cesar bolted the climb amazingly fast. He has a 36volt battery drill with two batteries. The approach to the climb is a little scary so I think we will put in some fixed ropes for assistance. There are many more possibilities for routes in this area. To climb on something that no one else has ever done was a thrill. Also, putting up anchors at the top and not knowing if a route is possible, and then discovering that it is possible was a great feeling. I really felt like John was watching or there while we were working on this climb. I think he would like to try it.

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